Into the Desert....

Into the Desert….

One of the key adventures we have planned is camel riding into the Sahara Desert. So we set out with our guide and driver.

 It is actually quite far to the desert from Marrakesh. We must first pass over the High Atlas Mountains, the smaller Anti-Atlas Mountains, through the Draa Valley and finally Zagora which is the entry point.

 It will take the best part of the day, but we do not want to arrive too early. We prefer to ride in late in the afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day – even hotter than Marrakesh.

As we drive through the Atlas Mountains we see the commitment Morocco has made to upgrading and developing good modern highways that will cut hours off of the trip. The highway winds with switchback turns up and up over the mountains – much of it in a state of continual construction. These mountains are tetonic  formed by earthquakes a millennia ago. They are red rock similar to Arizona and with lush green vegetation from the waters of the rain and snowmelt.



As we continue over the top, through Tichka Pass, and down the other side we enter the Anti-Atlas Mountains. These are black and volcanic. Here the roads are not as advanced, huge machinery sits abandoned all along – the company that had the contract is on hold since the death of the father who owned the construction company.

As we come down into the Draa valley we observe an endless oasis that stretches alongside the Draa River – a vibrant green belt of palm trees, olive groves and crops. Here a single date palm can produce between 80 and 100 kg of dates each year.



Along the way we stop to visit two kasbahs – old castle-like structures built out of mud and straw that housed the nobles and their families and people. These were fortified so they could be defended. The walls are very thick and therefore they are refreshingly cool inside. They are large complexes that held many people inside with towers and turrets and beautifully ornate doors and windows.

 

Finally we arrive in Zagora and into the dessert. Here we leave Brahim and our driver to continue in with our packs and we mount our camels – these poor creatures are showing the wear of a life in the hot desert sun. Our camel driver, a withered old man in a dusty white tunic, helps us mount the camels caravan style – tied one to another in a single file row – and we begin.  

The sun is low in the sky, it is around 5:00 and the air is somewhat cooler – probably only in the low 30’s by now- and we make our way into the desert and toward our camp. As we proceed the sun sets behind us. We stop to take photos.

When we arrive at camp it is dusk and we are shown to our tents. These are very rudimentary Berber tents, meant to be as authentic as possible. I think the achieved this. The shell is a patchwork of woolen blankets – black ones- in this heat!!. There is a single overhead light and a central bathroom/shower room. But there is a lovely central sort of courtyard with small tables and chairs and comfy banquettes we can relax on. And a large campfire area to gather around after dinner.

There is a dining tent where we have dinner – chicken tagine that is so juicy and flavourful. It is already late by the time we finish dinner and we have another early start tomorrow.

At 5:00 we meet for breakfast and then hike up the ridge to watch the sun rise before we mount our camels and ride back out of the desert.

Of course that means another very long day of driving back to Marrakesh, but well worthwhile. 

Afterall, we rode camels in the Sahara and slept under the stars in a Berber desert camp!!!

How cool is that!   One more day as we head to Casablanca before we head home. 

Come With Me.....

Welcome to Morocco!

Morocco….. Land of Kasbahs and Medinas

Some people asked why we added Morocco on to a trip to Egypt. It is not exactly next door and the connecting flights do not work well. It is about 5 hours from Cairo to Casablanca and another 2 1/2 hour drive to Marrakech where we were headed.



But Morocco just sounds so exotic and Arabic. I picture sultan’s palaces, flying carpets and genies in a bottle. And just the sound of Kasbah and Medina and Souk are intriguing. And how can places with names like Casablanca and Marrakech not be fabulous? So, why not?



We land in Casablanca. My first impression from the air is how agricultural it is around Casablanca. Orderly green fields surround the city where I imagined only deserts. We later learned that when the rest of the area was developing resources like oil and gas Morocco chose instead to focus on agriculture and base its economy on that. The government (Kingdom) has invested in dams and irrigation and crop development.

Morocco is now a leading producer and exporter of olives, dates, sugar, watermelon, oranges. And the sole producer of Argan oil, made from the nut of the Argan tree that grows only in a very specific area of the country. Plus they grow wheat, barley and vegetables mostly for their own population, reducing their dependence on other countries.

The High Atlas Mountains run through Morocco, getting snow and rain which feeds the rivers. Dams manage the water supply and deliver water to verdant oases where groves of dates and olives thrive.


But what about their need for fuel if they do not develop those resources which surely lie under their lands as well? Morocco is committed to developing solar and wind power and is one of the leaders in that field, currently developing what will be one of the largest solar farms in the world. It is their goal to provide 40% of all the power they consume from solar by 2030. And why not, where would you get more hours of sun… how smart is that.



I was very impressed by the forward thinking and strategic approach they are taking in many ways. Of course there is still a long way to go in areas like recycling and water quality and things like that. But they are aware and taking proactive steps. The city of Casablanca has implemented a recycling program and even Marrakech has recognized the problem with plastics and banned single use plastic bags. Whenever you buy something it is provided in a small resuable bag.

Marrakech…

Our Riad or hotel is located inside the Medina which is the old walled city dating back centuries. Winding cobblestone alleyways weave their way through the medina. Luckily our guide is leading the way and we follow. You can not drive in so our bags are loaded into a cart which is pulled in by a porter for a few dirham. The alleys are dusty and narrow. Brahim, our guide, challenges us to remember how we got to the Riad and see if we can figure out how to get back out.  Left, left, right,left…. We are a bit nervous of getting lost in this maze.

The Riad l’Huere d’Ete is small, only 11 units. Like all legitimate Riads the rooms open to a central tiled courtyard. Riads are typically old homes within the medina that have now been converted into small hotels. They always have the central courtyard or garden, typically a rooftop patio with a pool or hottub, often a spa or hammam and a restaurant of some type. If you are lucky you may be able to get a cold beer or glass of wine but Morocco is 98% muslim and alcohol is hard to find.

Our Riad was positioned on its website as 4 ½ stars. That was generous. But we came to enjoy it. The rooms were spacious and the air conditioning was working overtime to combat the 42 degree weather. The shower left something to be desired and it was a bit tired and dated but located well and quite comfortable. And the internet, though free, was a challenge.







Walking tour….


The Medina is the old area of Marrakesh. The newer area outside the walls is modern and very influenced by the French who occupied Morocco from 1912 to 1956. It feels prosperous and optimistic with many new office buildings and businesses. North American and European stores and fast food restaurants are evident, even Starbucks. No building can be over 5 storeys high.

But the medina retains its old world feel. In the centre is the square, Jemaa el Fna. This is the heart of the medina. Restaurants and little shops surround it and in the evening it comes alive with stalls selling everything from oranges and fruits to colorful scarves and lanterns. You can get Henna tattoos or watch jugglers or acrobats or monkeys. If you go early to one of the rooftop patios you can catch a spectacular sunset as you cool down with a cold Coke or Sprite or water… likely not anything alcoholic though.

 There is music and chanting and dancing in the square. It is a gathering place where African culture mixes with Arabic and tourists from all corners of the world join in. But at 9:00 you will see the exodus as the Muslims make their way to the mosque.

From the square, follow through the ancient stone archway into the old alleyway, El Waha, lined with little shops selling all manner of souvenirs, pottery, lanterns, wooden carved camels, and any other Moroccan item you may fall in love with. Beautiful little tea glasses (they drink tea out of small glasses not cups), colorful scarves and loose cotton tops ideal for the heat. Colorful Moroccan slippers, hats, cushions, etc…….

The alley is narrow and crowded. You must be alert. Motorcycles or scooters whiz through pushing everyone to the side. Every now and then a tuk-tuk or a donkey cart carrying a load of something will make its way through. People scramble out of the way then continue on.

And the doors….. Moroccan people take their doors very seriously. Even the most run down place has a great door. Whether it is heavy ornately carved wood or colorful iron doors or hand painted designs, doors are special and unique… and photographic!

Being almost entirely Muslim, of course the mosque is a critical part of the Moroccan culture. Muslim people must pray 5 times a day and whenever possible they do this at their mosque. The mosque itself overflows and people gather in the courtyard around the mosque. Many bring their own mat for kneeling, other use the straw mats provided. One of the key elements is that everyone is equal and so they fall into place next to the last person, no place of privilege or status.

The tall minaret hosts 3 bronze balls- the largest represents Mecca – their Holy Land; the second is Medina, another Holy place; and the third is for Jerusalem. These are the three most sacred places. First prayer is just before sunrise and last is just after sunset.

A man whose job it is calls people to prayer through a loud speaker system that carries through the medina.  You will see people in the square, in their pace of business, participating in the prayer. Because it was Ramadan when we were there the people are not allowed to eat or drink anything from sunrise (about 4:30) to sunset (7:20). Nothing – not even water. Bear in mind the temperatures. From 7:00 to 8:00 many businesses close so the people can break their fast with sweet sugary pastries, juices and then a meal and water.

At the other end of the medina is a huge stone archway, it is the entryway into the Kasbah. The Kasbah traditionally was the palace or home of the Sultan. It lay within the medina, another walled section within the walls of the medina.  Now it just holds more shops and restaurants. There is also the Jewish quarter where the Jewish people lived from about the 16^th century until they were forced out to return to Israel. There are very few Jewish people left but that is where the best markets or souks are – wonderful spice markets with heaping colored bins of every exotic spice you could imagine – brilliant orange saffron, fragrant rosemary, fresh mint and oregano.

The Bahia Palace is also within the medina. It dates back to 1860 and was the residence and office of the Grand Vizier, or Prime Minister under the King.

He wanted the power so when the king died he bypassed the elder sons and had the youngest song named king. The son was only 12 so he assumed power and ran the country and built himself this magnificent palace, in which he housed not only his 4 wives but also his 24 concubines.




One area of the palace is the Harem where the concubines resided. There was also a school for all of his children – not sure how many there were. It is a magnificent building all spread out over one floor. The Grand Vizier demanded the palace have no more than 3 steps in any place. That is because he was very short and fat and could not handle more than 3 steps.


 There are beautiful courtyards and gardens and fountains as well as his offices and important meeting rooms.



















The weather is very hot and even more so in the medina where the heat reflects off the stone walls. By the end of the day the sweat is dripping. The only place we know that can offer a nice cold beer is the Tazi Bar, so that where we head to cool down before returning to our Riad.

Tomorrow..... we head into the Sahara Desert. Come With Me.....

Temples and Tombs

Land of Temples and Tombs...

Valley of the Kings from hot air balloon ride.

Ancient Egyptian civilizations focussed on the afterlife. The afterlife was more important than the current life and everything revolved around preparing for the afterlife.  It was not 

really reincarnation but more resurrection, believing that you would return just like the sun sets at night and comes back up the next morning.

That is why the most important God was Ra, or AmunRa – the God of the Sun. Ra is represented by the sun disk and incorporated into many of the Egyptian symbols. 

Temples honored the Gods much like our churches honor our God. There were many Gods though, each having its own special power or significance. Like Horus – God of Protection and Hathur- the motherhood goddess. OR……Osiris – god of death and resurrection or Isis, Goddess of beauty.

The Temples were built by various Kings over a long period of time dating back to around 2600 BC. They massive stone walls are covered with hieroglyphics and intricately carved scenes depicting stories relating to the Gods. Each temple was dedicated to different Gods depending on who that particular King wanted to honor or the time the temple was built.

A temple always consisted of the same basic layout: first the entrance. Usually the temple was located inside a walled square with a long pathway toward the temple. Some temples had very elaborate walkways lined with sphinxes or statues or columns. Others just has significant statues flanking the entry.  

Next was the colonnaded court. Huge granite columns supported massive blocks of sandstone creating a ceiling above. The columns were huge to support this weight and dense. Each column was different with different symbols in the crown of the pillar. Most common were the lotus flower – symbol of Lower Egypt – and the papyrus – symbol of Upper Egypt.  This courtyard was were people gathered at the temple. The last part was the Holy Sanctuary where the high priest would communicate with the god in question and pass those directives down to the people. No one but the high priest could enter the Sanctuary – not even the King. The priests were very powerful and unquestioned.

There was usually a vault somewhere – a room that housed the valuable like scrolls and tablets. Perhaps jewels, gold, etc.

The engravings on the walls were historical, recording the beliefs and legends of the Gods and advising the King and the people of how to prepare for the afterlife.  In most of the temples all the images and carvings were painted. In some cases where they are protected from the sun the colors are still visible. 

We had occasion to visit several temples throughout the Luxor area, each was different and unique yet very similar. 

For example: 

Karnak Temple is located in Luxor.  This temple is dedicated to Amun-Ra, king of the Gods, it was the country’s most important temple. Built in 2000 BC, it covers 60 acres and honors 10 gods. It contains the Sacred Lake where the priests purified themselves before praying 4 times a day. 

A long entryway known as Sphinx Avenue is lined with many statues of sphinxes ram heads and lion bodies. Over the years many other pharaohs have added to this important complex, the last being in 500 BC. Its key features include a towering statue of Ramses II in the Great Hall.

The temple lay buried under the desert sand for more than 1,000 years until it was discovered in the mid 19^th century.

Then there is Luxor Temple, located right in the city of Luxor on the banks of the Nile. Dedicated to 3 gods: Amun-Ra, Mut and Khonsu. Again abandoned and overtaken by sand, it was rediscovered in 1881. In the meantime a mosque had been built on top of the ruins and now sits high within the temple. 

3. Temple of Hatshepsut: Hatshepsut was the first female ruler of Egypt and her Temple is carved in the sheer limestone cliff face near the Valley of the Kings. It was built by the engineer/architect Senenmut who became  her husband. It is massive and impressive and very different from the others in that it sprawls in more horizontal manner and is three levels, with long rows of columns on each level. The beautiful images on the walls depicting Hatshepsut’s life have largely been defaced by her stepson and later pharaohs who wished to remove her from history. The rows of columns originally were of her characterized as a man with Egyptian false beard but the heads have been destroyed. 

In order to justify her position of ruler she claimed to have been the devine birth of the gods and this is legitimized in the images in the colonnade.

Hatshepsut was a good ruler who travelled to other African countries to promote commerce and trade. Images on the walls depict this.

The Temple later became a Christian Monastery.

4. Edfu Temple: The Temple of Horus in Edfu is the best largest and preserved of all the temples, dating back to 237 BC, built by Ptolemy II. It honors Horus, one of the most significant Egyptian deities. He is symbolized by the falcon and the temple entry is flanked by two towering black granite falcons. The myth is that Horus was the sky, one eye was the sun and one the moon and they rose and set as the falcon flew across the sky. The eye of Horus is the Egyptian symbol for protection.

5. Kom Ombo Temple: It sits overlooking the Nile and amid a beautiful agricultural setting of sugar cane fields. It is twin temple with two matching entrances, halls and sanctuaries, one for Horus the falcon-god on the left and Sebek, the local crocodile god on the right. Built in 2^nd century BC by Ptolemy VI. The columns contain the traditional lotus and papyrus of the united Egypt.  Next to the temple is the Crocodile Museum with intact mummies of crocodiles.

6. Temple of Philae, Aswan. This Temple originally sat on the island of Philae. However, when the Aswan Dam was built the water level raised and the temple was largely submerged. Eventually UNESCO helped to move on rebuild the Temple on the neighbouring Island of Agilika. You reach the island by a small motor boat.

Temple of Philae was dedicated to Isis, goddess of beauty and her husband Osiris.



Tombs:

The Tombs on the other hand were the place that the person was placed after death and became the vehicle that led them to the afterlife. In it was placed everything they would 

need in their next life, from clothing and dishes and tools to furniture and food.  The person was mummified and placed into a sarcophagus and inside the coffin. With the Kings these were beautiful and elaborate, within one coffin inside another and another. Each larger and more elaborate. Because of the gold and wealth in the tombs they have been the target of grave robber since the beginning. King Tut’s tomb is the only one found intact.

The Pyramids in Giza are the greatest of the tombs but these were robbed by tomb robbers so the Egyptians looked for better ways to hide these. This resulted in the magnificent Valley of the Kings, an area of limestone cliffs and desert sand. There is no outward sign of the tombs and they are buried deep in to the cliffs and the ground. To date 62 tombs have been discovered in the valley, but there are many more likely undiscovered. Many have been raided despite the efforts to hide them.



The most famous and recent is King Tut’s tomb discovered in 1922. It is the only one intact.

On our visit we had a chance to visit King Tut’s tomb and 3 others. 

Many are closed for continued restoration.  The entryways are generally long corridors, in some case very steep down into the earth. They are decorated with intricate and detailed carvings. Because they are protected from the sun the vibrant colors still exist on many of the walls.

There are still many tombs to be discovered and many archeological groups dedicated to unearthing and preserving this fascinating piece of Egyptian history.

Come With Me as we leave Egypt and head to the medinas and kasbahs of Marrakech in Morrocco.